
鹿港拥有完整的古迹保存区与历史久远的庙宇,在鹿港生长的我却和大部分的鹿港人一样,认为它不过是个过渡的海滨小镇,年轻人想出走的城市,然而谁总是在世世代代的风中轻语著她昔日的风华。直到这几年与外国背包客的交流增多,每当沙发客朋友的相机停留在一个不起眼的转角或招牌老旧的神桌店时,我才重新认识鹿港的深厚与人文的可贵。
Lukang owns well-reserved historic preservation and several venerable temples. I grown up in here and take the same thoughts toward to Lukang just like many Lukang people, that Lukang is nothing more than a fading coastal town as like many of others in Taiwan and where young people should leave for pursuing a hopeful career. However Lukang, who whispers its ancient flourishing stories in the descendant winds. Until recent years I got some chances to accompany with couch surfers from various countries, together with them I re-discovery my hometown and have started to learn about Lukang with a pair of curious backpacker eyes.
A glance of Lukang.
瑶林街的"人入"砖,在鹿港随处可见智能与艺术的融会。
In Chinese word, 人means "people", 入means "please in", together the pattern means "Welcome many people". The red brick shows the ancient integration of art and wisdom.
对于许多离家的旅行者而言,遇见的人测量了一座城市的亲疏远近,心灵的链接强过空间的三元观。而鹿港,已经决定了背包旅行最重要的要素,温暖的人情。曾有一位旅行20多国的韩国朋友告诉我「鹿港亲切得太不可思议,让我的旅行完整了!」
For most of travelers, the people we met determined the way to measure the distance of a city. The connection of spirit is stronger than the visible geographical boundaries.Lukang has already radiated the most important light for travelling which is “warming human interest.”A Korean friend of mine was travelling 20 more countries and once said to me that “the friendly Lukang is too amazing, it has completed my journey.”
人情味不分男女老幼天上人间。
关于鹿港地名的说法很多,但我最喜欢这个最顾名思义的版本: 中部一带昔日多鹿,常有鹿群聚集海口草埔,故名鹿仔港,后简称鹿港。
In common parlance, there are four origins about the name of Lukang, but I like this one most which is“There used to be a lot of deer in the middle part of Taiwan which often gathered in grassland of the seaport, hence, it was named Luzaikang, shorted as Lukang afterwards.
While strolling about through Lukang we bumped into the deer by chance and it let our kids keep the imagination of ancient Lukang.
鹿港的兴盛则与中国汉人移民有地缘上的关系,十七世纪中,当时福建沿海居民为了讨生活(福建七山二水一分田)与生意往来,因而移民来台湾。鹿港遂发展成为早年移民台湾的中部最大港。
The development of Lukang is related to the proximity to Mainland China. During 17th center, the coastal resident in Fijian province migrate to Taiwan for living (a saying about Fijian is mountains 2 water and 1 plain field) thus Lukang has become a biggest harbor of middle Taiwan, In 1784 Lukang was designated as the busy Taiwan seaport for shipping links with Chuanchou city (China泉州).
多数的鹿港人民祖先从漳州、泉州过来,施振荣先生曾在参加某国际会议时,大陆国家主席对他的口音感到很好奇,他说:「我这是鹿港口音,鹿港的先民是从泉州来的。」
An overall majority of Lukang people’s ancestor are from Changchou or Chuanchou. The founder of Acer group Stan Shih once during his meeting in APEC, chairman Hu of PRC was very curious about his accent. Shih answered,” I love this Lukang accent, my forefather came to Taiwan from Chuanchou.”
鹿港中山路典型的欧式老房,也是施振荣先生的老家。现为施美玉香铺。
A typical house on ChungShan Rd., Which is Stan Shih’s old house. Also known as Shimeiyu incense shop.
与我的父亲(左),2012年循著祖谱至中国泉州探访祖先祠堂,与7代前的远亲问候(中、右),这里与鹿港的说话口音确实有一些相像,但是用词稍微不同。200年以前许多台湾人的祖先,就是从这个地方出发,移民至台湾成家立业。
Followed the blurred address according to my family tree, my father and I travelled to Chuanchou city, China in 2012 to visit my real remote relatives (I am the 7th generation since my ancestor migrate to Taiwan).
也因为早期发展的移民文化与海洋贸易,使得鹿港的庙宇比便利商店还多,实际也是全台庙宇密度之冠。
A saying about the numerous temples in Lukang is " 3 steps a small temple, 5 steps a big temple." Indeed the density of temple is highest in Taiwan.
庙宇香火鼎盛,使得"假日皆好日"的鹿港也传承著台湾重要的庙会文化,人人皆喜爱、老少皆咸宜。
Temple Fairs were held on auspicious day base on the lunar calender. But is now plays on weekend due to the changing of social model and life transition. Lukang is one of the best places to photograph the festivals due to the good attendance of temple.
鹿港的命运与九曲巷一样弯曲?!
The destiny of Lukang is just as curved as "Nine-Curved Lane" ?
鹿港风华曾经超过半个世纪,但泥沙淤积与中日战争(1937)关闭港口使得港口功能丧失,光采不再。但是另一个对现代更直接的影响应该是在铁路运输盛兴的年代,鹿港却与之失之交臂,但为何铁路不来鹿港呢?
After 60 years flourishing in commerce, Lukang came down with alluviums in the harbor, quite a lot of changes in personnel and the happen of The Sino-Japanese war(1937). And one the other direct reason was the Taiwan railway didn't set Lukang as a station. But why?
有一个说法是鹿港的地方仕绅强烈反对,怕铁路斩断了龙脉风水,日本人也就顺水推舟,藉此孤立鹿港,摆脱了旧势力的纠缠,也减少"市街改正"的预算。老鹿港,却也意外地被保留下来。
Lukang local gentry were strongly against the railway station due to the concern about FengShui. The Japanese government were pushing the boat along to with the objection so as to get rid of the past power of local gentry. On the other hand, it could be a nice way to shorten the budget of " district improvement." Hence Lukang, perchance keeping the original architectures remain.
古迹的保存是意外的,工艺的延续却是坚持的。 在鹿港的巷弄中总能发现为传统付出的身影。
The remanding old buildings have been restored by chance, and the traditional handicrafts have been persisted by belief or principle which I am too green to understand. By wandering through Lukang's narrow alleys, we can always discovery the masters of art and tradition.
鹿港有一句俗谚说:「富过三代,方之饮食。」 和台湾很多早期发展的地方一样,鹿港的民俗点心与小吃,好吃也好看。 第一市场是鹿港人打牙祭的地方, 如面线糊、龙山肉羹、肉圆、润饼、芋圆、鸭肉冬粉或年舌饼、蚵仔煎等... 20年,在这里可能还无法称做为老店。
There is a local saying in Lukang, " Beyond the 3rd rich generation, just knowing how to appreciate food and drink." Lukang First traditional market provides various choice of traditional food and street food. such as thick rice noodle soup, thick soup with meat and seafood, taro balls, mud shrimp dish, meat buns... and so on. 20 year-old in here, may not old enough to be called as an old shop.
鹿港人有好客的基因,我想这也是我试著写博客的原因,希望每个台湾人跟每个外国人都来鹿港散步、旅行。
以上是鹿港的小简介,黑体字的部分都是要继续延伸的主题,也是鹿港值得深入的题材。我将继续上课并把更完整的信息与大家分享! 谢谢参考指正
Lukang people own the DNA of hospitality, and it might be the reason that I start to write the blog. Sincerely I wish that every Taiwanese and every foreign friend can come to Lukang to have a nice travelling. above is a brief introduction to Lukang, boldface words are the topics that I am going to carry on. But before that I will have to study more and sharing a more complete and precise information. Thank you!
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